Mi novia, Mi amor, Mi vida!!!

Every. Single. Day.

Walking around in BsAs as a tall, pale, freckled, blue-eyed woman is challenging. I stand out. I can't seem to blend in with the crowd, especially on public transport, and especially when I start to speak. Therefore, I attract a lot of unwanted attention.

I don't stand out like this:



But I do stand out like this:

(that's your mom..just kidding, it's mine)

In Argentina cat-calling is akin to Italy: Men do it and it's accepted. Sometimes it's just an air kiss, sometimes it's simply a whistle, but other times it's an all out continual yell. I try to avoid certain areas, no offense to the construction men reading this, but eff yeah, construction sites. If I feel an uncomfortable situation coming on, sometimes I cross the street to avoid it.

Typical cat-calls are (in English): My love!; My girlfriend!; You are so beautiful!; Hey gringa!

Atypical cat-calls are (in English): (Men unloading a coca-cola truck) You are so beautiful, if you were with me, I'd give you coca-cola everyday!; Will you marry me?; Your eyes light up my day

The latter, of course, are appreciated and can really make a bad day a bit better. The former, however, are unoriginal and simply embarrassing for both parties. Get a grip and come up with a better line because this gringa has heard it all, jerk.

I'll Be Back.

Where have I gone? Apparently I lost my muse, which begs the question: Did I ever really have it at all? (I hope you're laughing.)

Well after months of not writing, I decided to get back into the game. I have students on vacation which means less teaching time, which means less income, which means less going out, which means more time sitting at home alone in my sweatpants writing to you all, if you're still out there.

While home at my brother's graduation party, I had many people ask what happened to Nora the Explorer? All of these people, and I mean all, were either family or family friends who lovingly read my blog, keeping up with my antics, mood swings, rants, and sometimes (like this post) incomprehensible ramblings. But surprisingly, there are people out there that miss this. So, thanks to my extremely large and loving family, I am going back to blogging!

Oh, and for all who think I hate America because I don't live there, harumph - I had a 4th of July themed birthday party to celebrate the wonderful country from which I come.


Special thanks to my mom for the headbands and my aunts who reminded me to shop around at the dollar stores in Buffalo, because they really all have different things.

Iguazu Falls

As most of my avid readers are my extended family, you already know that my parents came to visit me, and together we went on a Brazilian adventure. Our whole trip is going to be broken up into a series of blog posts. To begin with – Iguazu Falls.


I know. Wow. Apparently there are many different versions of this number, but there are around 270 different falls that make up all that is Iguazu. You can view the falls from the Argentine and Brazilian side, and we lucky did both. Don’t forget to get a visa for Brazil (leaving enough time to get it). We first did the Brazilian side, which has amazing views:




Then we went around to the Argentine side to see the devil’s throat:



Then we went back to the Brazilian side to take a boat ride under the falls. This boat ride puts the Maid of the Mist to shame. We sat in a raft and were taken literally under the falls. I couldn’t even breathe. I found myself screaming and holding my mom’s hand the entire time – a position I haven’t found myself in for years. It was fantastic, though I would recommend going on the Brazilian side. The day after we went under the falls, we were told that two Americans died doing the same thing on the Argentine side. Scary.

Iguazu Falls are fantastically beautiful and well worth a trip to see them!

How to get a Brazilian Visa in Argentina

I am writing this blog post so that everyone going to Brazil from Argentina does not have to experience the frustrations that have consumed my past two weeks. So, here goes. This is how to actually get a visa (as an American/tourist) to go to Brazil from Buenos Aires, Argentina.

Step 1: Do not simply go to the embassy. Especially because you need to go to the Brazilian consulate (they are different). Do not simply go to the consulate. You must make an appointment, which can be done here: http://www.conbrasil.org.ar/CONSBRASIL/visas_otros01engl.asp. Note: appointments take TWO WEEKS to make, so do this sooner rather than later.

Step 2: Fill out forms and print to bring to the consulate during your appointment time. Forms can be found on the same page: http://www.conbrasil.org.ar/CONSBRASIL/visas_otros01engl.asp (scroll down).

Step 3: Have a passport picture, flight information, hotel information and address and bank statement printed and ready to go. Note: your passport picture will be a part of your visa that goes in your passport (I say this because I have quite possibly the worst picture in mine).

Step 4: Go during your appointed time and hand in all forms. On the same day, go to the bank that is on Sante Fe (walk out of the consulate, make a left, walk three blocks to Sante Fe, make a left and walk two blocks). Pay at the bank (about $150 US) and KEEP THE RECEIPT.

Step 5: Three days later return to the consulate with the bank receipt and claim your passport.

After I wrote this it seems easy, but I made the mistake of simply going and asking for a visa. I was oh so rudely turned away (in Spanish, and the same person started speaking in English as soon as I had an appointment).

On that note, I’m off to Brazil!

A Day in Tigre

A Day in Tigre A fantastic day trip to get out of the city is jumping on the 40 minute train to Tigre. This transport will cost you less than $1 US round trip – you heard me. You will probably have to stand the whole way, but it’s probably safer than those 15 Euro standing room flights Ryanair proposed (is that still an option?). So, off to the beautiful Tigre!


In Tigre, there is a market, boat rides, an amusement park (unsure when/if that’s open) and more to do. We arrived late in the day so opted for a stroll by the water.


And we consumed many, many licaudos, which I have recently become obsessed with in Argentina.



It was too late for a boat ride, so we just walked and sat and strolled and relaxed. The market didn’t offer much more than other Argentine markets, except puppies to adopt (which I have actually seen in other markets) and my broken heart left behind with them.

Moving on. Tigre is such a great, quick trip away from the city. I believe there is kayaking and such, but I did not partake because I forgot to wear sunscreen and wore a black dress. En serio? Yes. In sum, Tigre gets one big American thumbs up.

Notable Spanish Mishap 4

Bought it thinking it was face wash, used it as body wash and then realized it was lotion.

Yes, it says crema.

Yes, it also says Happy Time.


Yes, my closet is really messy.

The Rains Down in Argentina

I’ve written about the Rwanda rain, which is scary. But the rain in Argentina definitely gives Africa a run for its money (I could insert a joke in here, but I’m going to respectful decline to do so).

One time a friend here told me that people don’t go out when it rains because they are scared to get stranded. After laughing that off, I realized it’s most certainly true, and I will now be one of those people.

The night started off with a drizzle, but soon after sitting at the bar, it started to forcefully come down. Around 4am, when we tried to leave, we realized: There are no cabs and it’s still pouring. So we sent one brave friend off to hail a cab and pick up the rest of us (don’t even, I’m a lady and my Spanish is sub-par). After somehow finding a cab, we all piled in to head home.

Problem was the streets were literally flooded. The cab had to wade through the water as car crashes happened behind us. All I can really compare this to is trying to wade your wagon across the lake in Oregon Trail and tipping..and getting cholera. The cab took us as far as he could, but then we were forced to walk through the water to my apartment building. Well, I am sure glad I live on the 18th floor.

The drains in the city get clogged, which forces the water buildup in the streets. Then, you must walk through all of the dirt and shit (I’m sorry, I’m swearing) because I literally mean dog feces to get to where you want to go. And then, hang up your clothes and jump in the shower because that is dirtyyy. This picture doesn’t even do it justice, but it’s the best we got.



Photo Credit: Caley Bulinski

Life as I Know It

So recently I’ve gotten a surge of “how is life there?” questions, but it’s sort of hard to answer that since life here is not that new and exciting. Don’t get me wrong, it’s summer here, so I’m not battling my usual seasonal depression. But, I’ve settled into somewhat of a routine that sort of lacks a wild and craziness that one might expect from living in Argentina.

The major difference is my day is completely shifted time-wise. I do not get up at 7am, shuffle off to work, eat lunch at 1pm, dinner by 6pm, etc. Here, I don’t see 7am (unless it was a particularly fun boliche night). Everything is shifted, which will be interesting to experience when my parents arrive.

I have a couple of jobs in addition to my fellowship, one which I recently quit since I’m pretty sure they were laundering money or something very sketchy. But, I don’t have an offer per se, so I’m left to my own accord, which means cafés to get out of my apartment. Weekends are spent out with friends, or staying in watching a movie, so really, I could be anywhere.

OMG this blog post, and seemingly my life, is so boring I’m contemplating deleting the entire thing. But, since I have nothing else lined up to post, you must suffer through. As a consolation prize for sticking with me, enjoy this picture of the beautiful Argentine sunset. I will spice up my blog (and my life) soon!

You're So Vain

You probably think this post is about you.

I follow GrouponBA on twitter (whoa, whoa too much?). I'll start over. GrouponBA, like Groupon, has discounted coupons that numerous people buy, hence the company agreeing to the discount. They have a twitter handle (you know twitter, come on now), that I follow.

GrouponDC was fantastic, for the most part. Discounted tours, culture, of course there were hair salons, etc. But GrouponBA is a whole new game. The majority of the coupons are for something to do with vanity.

Most BA Groupons consist of:

• Hair removal
• Botox
• Lipo
• Salons
• Facial treatments
• Exercise classes
• Natural Food
• Teeth whitening

DC had those once in a while, and I know I know, that sort of thing is almost wasted on that town, but really BA, stop giving me a complex! I mean really.

Notable Spanish Mishap 3

I know, I know don't deserve any readers; I haven't blogged since January 11th! What have you all been doing?? Well, I realized why I'm a terrible writer here - I have TV in Argentina and Internet at my house. Not having that in Rwanda forced me to do something...which became writing. Anyway, to make it up to you, here is another notable spanish mishap. Thankfully I didn't say this one; I merely stood by giggling as it happened.

The scene: Kentucky (seriously), a local pizza place that has amazing hours, aka is almost always open (and for the girl who recently had her cab driver go all around BsAs searching for an open McDonalds at 1am, it will suffice). My friend, who you should all know by now, and I are getting home from a night out so naturally decide to stop in for pizza. Hilarity insues...

What was said:
J: dos piezas de mozerella y dos empanadas por favor
Kentucky Staff: algo mas?
J: No, pero no frio las empanadas
KS: (weird look)
J: Quiero calliente no fria
J: (reinforcing) Quiero las empanadas callientes y no frias!

What he meant to say:
J: Two pieces of mozerella and two empanadas please
KS: anything else?
J: no, but don't fry the empanadas (to heat them up)
KS: (weird look)
J: I want them hot but not fried
J: (reinfocing) I want them hot and not fried!

What was Heard:
J: Two pieces of mozerella and two empandas please
KS: anything else?
J: no but don't cool the empanadas
KS: (weird look)
J: I want them hot but not cold
J: (reinforcing) I want them hot and not cold!

Getting Around in BsAs

Disclaimer: This post will not be helpful to anyone moving to Buenos Aires. It is simpy to explain how I have been using transportation thus far and, more importantly, to keep this blog going. So here in the warm side of the world, there are various forms of transport. Near me, I have the option of cab, train, bus or subte (metro). Yes, I said train. To get around. The collectivos (buses) apparently go everywhere and are supposed to be fanstically amazing. However, I have yet to ride one unsupervised, so I still haven't mastered what is going on there.

What I do have a note from my mom to ride alone is the subte, or the BsAs metro line. I live on the green line, which apparently here is called the D line, but come on, I've lived in DC for so long AND the lines are color coded anyway. You're just asking me to call it the green line. Don't even get me started on how terrible the metro is mapped out, hence the great buses. Anyway, to get to work I ride the green line pretty much to the end, all the way downtown.

Now, I'm not going to complain about the ferocious heat in the subte (think DC summer but ALL the cars are without airconditioning) or how crowded it gets, because it's a city and I live here and whatnot. But, what really gets me is the subte etiquette, far far different from my apparent world of politeness I lived through in DC. The subte cars here are set up like any other metro, seats lining the outer part of the car and standing room in the middle. Tidbit: in DC I have been flagged down someone allowing me to sit instead of them, because I am a lady. Here, not only is that absolutely not the case, but it is so far from it. People don't even get up to allow older people to sit down. My age men (boys really for this behavior) will sit while me and older women stand in front of them for the entire metro ride.

Whats really annoying is that I constantly give up my seat out of guilt, so I end up standing the entire metro ride. And this isn't a metro center to farragut north metro ride, I take it nine stops. Twice a day. My Spanish isn't quite up to the level to give lectures about letting older women sit, but once it is..watch out portenos on the green line.

Happy New Year!

After 36 hours of travel, followed by 15 hours of sleep, I had quite possibly the tamest new years. But, it was FANTASTIC!! We had no expectations, and it turned out great! We actually laid around the apartment until about 11:30 (luckily my roommate had a friend in town, so there were 3 of us not a lonely 2) when we popped a $4 bottle of pink champagne.


Then we heard what could have only been gunshots. We rushed to the window to discover the incredibly loud booming noise was our neighbors setting off fireworks. YAY, no rules!! We rushed to the roof and saw literally a 360 view of fireworks being set off all over the city. It was incredible!! Our neighbors were setting them off on the next roof over, so they were really close. How close? The ashes were falling on us close. It was great!


After watching an episode of 90210 (old version), we all went to bed by 2-3am. Great night!!

My Roommate

I know I’ve been terrible about blogging about Argentine life, but it’s because I’m living it (anyone? No? Understood). But just to give you an idea of my life here, I wanted to write a quick post about my roommate. I have a fantastic apartment in Palermo (pictures on facebook), and I live with one other person. Who is that lucky lad? Him:


You're welcome.

Kissing in the Workplace

I’m sure you are all wondering what this post is about. So in different cultures there are different customs. And in Argentina, it is customary to kiss someone once on the cheek when you see them. I’m totally fine with kissing my friends when we see each other, but then you kiss on the cheek goodbye too. You also kiss people that you are introduced to (friends of friends), and really, anyone you sort of know. Again, fine with all of this.

Recently, however, I started teaching English at another company, as I’m beyond broke. They were beyond desperate because they hired me on the spot. Seriously, I can PR myself anywhere. So I started the next day. Cut to the next day: In walks my male boss. And, you guessed it - he kisses me on the check. Little project: everyone imagine walking into work on Monday and kissing your boss. This is even more understood if you are female and he is male (glass ceiling, I know). It’s weird! It’s just weird. And, of course, we had to kiss goodbye as well. Now what makes me so giggly about all of it is that every time it happens (twice a day Mon-Fri), I picture this custom in the US. Specifically with my former male boss and it makes me laugh.

But no, it’s totally normal here. Sidenote: our neighbors just came over to see our kitchen (or something, it was all in Spanish), and I kissed the man too. I guess the handshake just never really caught on here…